OK Guys, your average homoaner here. My HWT is dead. It's a Bradford White Direct vent type. Igniter won't spark. I 'think' the igniter is bad. It's a Rockwell SP845 Ignition Control Module.

• Ignition Module Prices
• Ignition Module Wiki

Now I don't normally go round poking in my HWT, but I was in the basement Saturday and noticed the power vent running. My typical attitude when I got Honey-do's.

After about 10-15 minutes notice it's still running. Start thinking (Oh-oh). 'This ain't right - should of shut off by now.'

Opened up the little visual door and see no flame. Shut her down. Find manual, look at instructions on tank and try starting her back up. No spark at igniter - never. I think I now understand how this modeule works. For you that don't believe me - this is close. Sparks for about 90 seconds, waits 5 minutes, sparks 90, wait 5 min., sparks 90, shuts down, Need to hit reset on thermostat.

I notice that the Ignitor (Robertshaw SP845) has a green LED on it. When I turn the ON/OFF switch on, the LED lights for 3 seconds then shuts off. Like mentioned above; I don't make it a habit of poking around here, so I don't know what normal LED lighting is. BUT, the module says IF LIGHT IS FLASHING, REFER TO SERVICE MANUAL. IF GREEN LIGHT IS OFF, CHECK POWER OR REPLACE MODULE. OK, check power.

I can do that. Get the Voltmeter out and make connections and watch as I toggle ON/OFF Switch. Constant 27 volts - the entire time (LED on or off). Got good power in. Now I'm thinking some more. Sparker - ignitor - cars - racing.nonono, I gotta fix this thing, it's getting ripe over here.

Umm, I check the wire and ignitor for continuity and have no open. So is it a good 'educated' guess (remember homoaner here) that the module is bad? Good power in, and looks like external wiring out of the module is also good. I just think something in the module unit is bad now and get another, but I got a feeling these are not cheap - like $100 or so.

See there's a universal Robertshaw kit available, but didn't see if they still make an SP845. Sent this problem to alt.home.repair 2 days ago, but got no replies, so I bow down to you all for a little guidance. Let the flames begin So do I spring for a new module or make a call for service. Ain't messing with the gas valve - but I do not think the problem is with the flow of gas.

Joe richard p dawson 3/9/2002, 14:08 น. Are you dealing with a bobby shaw module or a rockwellmodule sounds like you are dealing with a bobby shaw sp845? Gray box?about 4 inches wide and about 6 inches tall and about 3 inches thick? They werent that good to begin with honeywell makes a good universal replacement S8610u1000 i think it is a sparker just like your's depending on the age of this unit you might consider not replacing with the bobbby shaw and go with something better, without laying hands on it it would be hard to say exactly what is wrong with it from here but at any rate the change from the bobby shaw to the honeywell is not something an amatuer should attempt, the next question would be, where would you get this to install yourself?

Call for service, sounds like you need a iid module but before you spend that kind of money you might want to be sure could also be a plugged vent or a bad pressure switch or who knows? Good luck rich Deeply Disturbed 3/9/2002, 14:43 น. Hi Rich, Thanks for your response. Roughly, what are we talking for a R&R of the module and service call?

Ballpark figure; I know prices vary by region. I live in northern Ohio, so I imagine price is middle of the road?

I wonder if I should go with the better one (Honeywell). The HTW is 3 years old with a 6 year warranty. These direct vents ain't cheap comparitavely - but the house was all electric and has no chimney so this is what got put in. Thought a Bradford White was more of a 'name-brand' type of HWT.

Model is MITW40L6LN10 if it matters. I'll go with the better one - if the serviceman stocks it and if the Bradford White seems like something that will last longer than its warranty. But isn't the LED on the Robertshaw SP845 a visual indicator of the status of the Ignition Control Module? And if everything was right, it would remain lit as long as it has voltage applied to its input?

Right now if only lights for 2-3 seconds when power is applied to it, then it shuts off. Input voltage is still present at all times. Thanks again, Joe Bubba 3/9/2002, 16:11 น. On Tue, 03 Sep 2002 15:05:47 GMT, Deeply Disturbed wrote: OK Guys, your average homoaner here. My HWT is dead. It's a Bradford White Direct vent type.

Igniter won't spark. I 'think' the igniter is bad. It's a Rockwell SP845 Ignition Control Module. Now I don't normally go round poking in my HWT, but I was in the basement Saturday and noticed the power vent running. My typical attitude when I got Honey-do's. After about 10-15 minutes notice it's still running.

Start thinking (Oh-oh). 'This ain't right - should of shut off by now.' Opened up the little visual door and see no flame. Shut her down. Find manual, look at instructions on tank and try starting her back up. No spark at igniter - never. I think I now understand how this modeule works.

For you that don't believe me - this is close. Sparks for about 90 seconds, waits 5 minutes, sparks 90, wait 5 min., sparks 90, shuts down, Need to hit reset on thermostat. If you have no spark ever (as you stated) I would be looking for a clogged vent, open limit or draft switch or a bad module.

I notice that the Ignitor (Robertshaw SP845) has a green LED on it. When I turn the ON/OFF switch on, the LED lights for 3 seconds then shuts off. Like mentioned above; I don't make it a habit of poking around here, so I don't know what normal LED lighting is. BUT, the module says IF LIGHT IS FLASHING, REFER TO SERVICE MANUAL. IF GREEN LIGHT IS OFF, CHECK POWER OR REPLACE MODULE. OK, check power. I can do that.

Get the Voltmeter out and make connections and watch as I toggle ON/OFF Switch. Constant 27 volts - the entire time (LED on or off). Got good power in. Now I'm thinking some more. Sparker - ignitor - cars - racing.nonono, I gotta fix this thing, it's getting ripe over here. Umm, I check the wire and ignitor for continuity and have no open. Why did you check all that 'power stuff'?

If the green light is on you dont need to do all that checking. You said the green led came on so you dont need to check power. Power is what lit that green led.

There are no batteries, you know:-) So is it a good 'educated' guess (remember homoaner here) that the module is bad? Good power in, and looks like external wiring out of the module is also good. I just think something in the module unit is bad now and get another, but I got a feeling these are not cheap - like $100 or so. See there's a universal Robertshaw kit available, but didn't see if they still make an SP845.

Throw the POS Robertshaw away and convert it with a Honeywell spark ignition module. Sent this problem to alt.home.repair 2 days ago, but got no replies, so I bow down to you all for a little guidance.

Let the flames begin Suprise, suprise. No geniuses in alt.home.repair? So do I spring for a new module or make a call for service. Ain't messing with the gas valve - but I do not think the problem is with the flow of gas. Gas is not present, (although you say you arent getting spark either) since you are not getting ignition so dont rule out the gas valve. Do you smell gas when it is trying to lite?

Unfortunately, I believe you are in a bit over your head. If your going to fumble through it yourself (WHICH I DONT RECOMMEND) try the easiest and least expensive repairs first. Is the pilot orifice clean? Good Luck Bubba Joe profft 3/9/2002, 17:13 น. Deeply Disturbed wrote: Hi RichThanks for your response. Roughly, what are we talking for a R&R of the module and service call? Ballpark figure; I know prices vary by region.

I live in northern Ohio, so I imagine price is middle of the road? cant begin to tell you. Here i would charge 65 dollars for the first hour if you were within 25 miles of my office i am in central illinois the module would be roughly 170 dollars I wonder if I should go with the better one (Honeywell). The HTW is 3 years old with a 6 year warranty. These direct vents ain't cheap comparitavely - but the house was all electric and has no chimney so this is what got put in. Thought a Bradford White was more of a 'name-brand' type of HWT. Model is MITW40L6LN10 if it matters.

I'll go with the better one - if the serviceman stocks it and if the Bradford White seems like something that will last longer than its warranty. I would, i have not been impressed with the bobby shaws i have seen these honeywell units perform far longer and under more adverse conditions But isn't the LED on the Robertshaw SP845 a visual indicator of the status of the Ignition Control Module? And if everything was rightit would remain lit as long as it has voltage applied to its input? Right now if only lights for 2-3 seconds when power is applied to itthen it shuts off. Input voltage is still present at all times. then it aint a power problem, is it? Thanks againJoe think hard about what you are attempting, if you cant troubleshoot it, the you really dont have any business messing with it, because it indicates that you really dont understand how it works, a real formula for disaster.

Call somebody who knows what they are doing with this thing rich Deeply Disturbed 6/9/2002, 15:16 น. Hey Rich, It's fixed.comments scattered thoughout. On Wed, 04 Sep 2002 06:38:48 -0500, richard p dawson wrote: Deeply Disturbed wrote: Hi RichThanks for your response. Roughly, what are we talking for a R&R of the module and service call? Ballpark figure; I know prices vary by region. I live in northern Ohio, so I imagine price is middle of the road? cant begin to tell you.

here i would charge 65 dollars for the first hour if you were within 25 miles of my office i am in central illinois the module would be roughly 170 dollars Here in Cleveland, the place I got to do it charged $65 for the service call (1/2 hour) and every 15 minute increment over that was like $19. Took the tech 3 trips to get it working. First trip to diagnose the problem - confirming what I suspected, 2nd trip to bring the 'wrong' Robertshaw SP845.

Numbers after SP845 are critical he found out. The replacement got the pilot lit, but wouldn't turn on the main burner. Then 3rd trip was finally putting in the right one. Each trip was 15 minutes, so I got charged $84 for the labor.

I guess I coulda complained about the 2nd trip when they brought back the wrong module, but I figgured that's my just reward for troubleshooting it myself. Oh, and the service call was just for time on job - no travel. I wonder if I should go with the better one (Honeywell). The HTW is 3 years old with a 6 year warranty. These direct vents ain't cheap comparitavely - but the house was all electric and has no chimney so this is what got put in. Thought a Bradford White was more of a 'name-brand' type of HWT. Model is MITW40L6LN10 if it matters.

I'll go with the better one - if the serviceman stocks it and if the Bradford White seems like something that will last longer than its warranty. i would, i have not been impressed with the bobby shaws i have seen these honeywell units perform far longer and under more adverse conditions I tried specifying a Honeywell Universal, but they say they could not cross-reference it.

$150 for the module is what I got charged. So it was a bit over $230. Kinda gets me perterbed when I see the price for replacement HWT's less than $200 at Home Despot. But those ain't direct vent - which is what I need in my situation; and I imagine in the long run you gotta believe you get what you pay for, so I guess I gotta live with it and hope the Bradford White is a dependable model. Thanks again, Joe Deeply Disturbed 6/9/2002, 15:21 น. Thanks, but no. Module was bad.

And when it has the input voltage applied, the LED is constantly lit. Thanks for the input though - I shoulda bet to re-coup the bill. But then I woulda lost, the way I been going this week. Hehe, this week was supposed to be a vacation week, with painting and stuff at the house. I can handle the price of paint and sweat equity, but this HWT went bad and can you believe that 2 cars had their power steering lines blow out?

Just got the first one back with new pressure hoses and tie rods and the other one's still out. $400 on the first one and who knows how much on the other. Man, I can't WAIT to go back to work next week. Joe On Wed, 04 Sep 2002 00:13:30 GMT, 'profft' wrote: Deeply Disturbed 6/9/2002, 15:29 น. Bubba, I'm sure you'll see what was found out, but I just had to reply to you, and I think you'll know where and why (to keep up with the smart-ass attitude in this group). I, personally love it, cuz I'm a tech too - not HVAC related though.

On Tue, 03 Sep 2002 23:11:33 GMT, Bubba wrote: On Tue, 03 Sep 2002 15:05:47 GMT, Deeply Disturbed wrote: OK Guys, your average homoaner here. My HWT is dead. It's a Bradford White Direct vent type. Igniter won't spark. I 'think' the igniter is bad.

It's a Rockwell SP845 Ignition Control Module. If you have no spark ever (as you stated) I would be looking for a clogged vent, open limit or draft switch or a bad module. You know the result. I notice that the Ignitor (Robertshaw SP845) has a green LED on it. When I turn the ON/OFF switch on, the LED lights for 3 seconds then shuts off.

Like mentioned above; I don't make it a habit of poking around here, so I don't know what normal LED lighting is. BUT, the module says IF LIGHT IS FLASHING, REFER TO SERVICE MANUAL.

IF GREEN LIGHT IS OFF, CHECK POWER OR REPLACE MODULE. OK, check power. I can do that. Get the Voltmeter out and make connections and watch as I toggle ON/OFF Switch.

Constant 27 volts - the entire time (LED on or off). Got good power in. Now I'm thinking some more.

Sparker - ignitor - cars - racing.nonono, I gotta fix this thing, it's getting ripe over here. Umm, I check the wire and ignitor for continuity and have no open. Why did you check all that 'power stuff'?

If the green light is on you dont need to do all that checking. You said the green led came on so you dont need to check power. Power is what lit that green led. There are no batteries, you know:-) Well, see this is why I asked the question. Yea, power was there cuz the LED was lit. But the LED went out after a couple/three seconds. Did the light go out because there was no more power coming in?

THat s what I wanted to know. Plus, I got all these fancy Fluke meters for my work, and sometimes I'd rather play with these than do the Honey-Do's. Sent this problem to alt.home.repair 2 days ago, but got no replies, so I bow down to you all for a little guidance. Let the flames begin Suprise, suprise. No geniuses in alt.home.repair?

OK, here ya go. Hmmmmm, haven't I seen you posting over there? Or are you only a genius when posting here?

Take care and thanks. And I bet there are a lot more like me.mostly in lurk-mode, until posting is almost absolutely necessary.

Ignition Module Prices

I prefer it this way myself, I'd rather have people think of me as an ass, then to start yapping and remove all doubt. Joe Bubba 6/9/2002, 20:11 น. On Fri, 06 Sep 2002 22:29:47 GMT, Deeply Disturbed wrote: BubbaI'm sure you'll see what was found out, but I just had to reply to you, and I think you'll know where and why (to keep up with the smart-ass attitude in this group). I, personally love it, cuz I'm a tech too - not HVAC related though. Glad I could entertain you.

Suprise, suprise. No geniuses in alt.home.repair? OK, here ya go. Hmmmmm, haven't I seen you posting over there? Or are you only a genius when posting here? Havent posted there in a while now.

Way way too many like you (dont take offense) over there. Its more than enough to drive someone nuts. Take care and thanks. And I bet there are a lot more like me.mostly in lurk-mode, until posting is almost absolutely necessary. I prefer it this way myself, I'd rather have people think of me as an ass, then to start yapping and remove all doubt. Joe Id say thats a safe bet of many in lurk mode.

Cant say I think your an ass. Your just not an hvac tech. Im not a medical doctor either. I hope your problem (the module) stays repaired but replacing it with the same Robertshaw was a mistake. Money down the drain. Should have gotten the Honeywell.

Bubba:-) oif2.@gmail.com 16/6/2016, 10:45 น.

Robertshaw Ignition Controls We carry a comprehensive selection of Robertshaw parts for your home and commercial HVAC systems. In this category you will find our large selection of Robertshaw Ignition Modules. We cover the basics really well but that's not all. Because we want to be your one stop for your Robertshaw needs, we especially take pride in locating hard-to-find components for you.

Ignition Module Wiki

Whatever part or parts your residential or commercial HVAC system needs, our goal is to be your one source for exactly what you're looking for.every time. Factory model HS780-34PL-308A. Replaces Rheem part # 62-22578-01 The 780 Series hot surface ignition modules are designed for use on gas fired heating systems. The system acts on a demand for heat by a switch or thermostat to supply power to the ignition control. This model has the prepurge option, there is a time delay equal to the heat up time selected before the ignitor is energized.

At the end of the ignitor heat up time the gas valve is opened supplying gas to the main burner. After several seconds, the ignitor is turned off and the sensor is energized. The 780 Series provides lockout and complete gas shutoff if ignition is not proven after the trial for ignition sequences has been completed.

The 24 VAC DS845 Direct Ignition Control is applicable to commercial cooking equipment, gas fired heating and water heating systems of many types. The system acts on a demand for heat by a switch or thermostat to open the gas valve. At the same time the DS845 ignition control supplies a spark to the electrode which ignites the gas. After the gas is lit, an electronic circuit proves the presence of flame using flame rectification. When the thermostat is satisfied, the gas valve will be closed to shut off main burner gas. Robertshaw Part No. DS845-NL-1-4 Replaces: 100-00832-02 100-00832-11 100-00832-13 100-00832-22 100-832-02 100-832-11 100-832-13 100-832-22.